I chose to bring in a bit of all 9 of their wines from the 2011 vintage; I love the breadth of flavors and aromas that are possible!!
Here are some press reviews from Ian d’Agata and Antonio Galloni of the 2010s and 2008s, NOT THESE 2011S (there is no press yet on the 11s):

2011 Pacherhof Muller Thurgau $16

“Pale, green-tinged color. Highly perfumed nose of white peach, minerals, lemon and white flowers, lifted by a delicate spicy note. Enters fresh and vibrant, then turns fuller and sweeter in the mid-palate, with dominant flavors of white peach and lemon. Offers very good energy without coming across as hard and finishes very long and pure, with an emerging saline element. Outstanding Muller-Thurgau; the variety will never rival riesling for complexity, but examples as good as this one are lipsmackingly delicious. And Pacherhof’s is an archetype of the quality Muller can attain in Alto Adige.” 92 points Ian d’Agata for the 2010

2011 Pacherhof Sauvignon blanc $16

2011 Pacherhof Gruner Veltliner $17

“The 2008 Gruner Veltliner is another superb white. This is one of the more complete wines in the line up as it offers both gorgeous aromatics but is backed up with terrific depth and richness in its fruit. Passion fruit, lime, flowers and spices all come together in this superb, complex and subtle Gruner. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. “ 91 points Antonio Galloni

Sicily’s Mt Etna has exploded…..no, not a volcanic eruption, which is very possible for this still active cauldron.  Rather, the renewed interest and investment that has taken place over the last 10 years has allowed the wine growing culture on Etna’s slopes to pass from ancient obscurity into the modern limelight of wine lovers’ fancy.  The indigenous varieties found here are quite unique: Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappucio in red; Carricante, Catarratto, and Minnela in white.  The soils are made principally of different layers and ages of decomposed lava, ash, and sand; this volcanic melting pot is terribly rich in minerals.  Due to its massive size, the appellation also benefits from strong microclimactic differences in exposure and elevation. These terroir-driven variations bring to mind the parcellary subtleties of the wines of Piemonte and Burgundy.  Nerello Mascalese, the predominant red variety, is quite Pinot Noir like, but with a certain southern Mediterranean richness.  It is most often vinified with a red fruited pallor which allows for en even greater reflection of a site’s soil/elevation driven qualities.  Once again, the wines of Piemonte and Burgundy come to mind.
Roughly a decade ago, the iconoclastic Andrea Franchetti of Tenuta di Trinoro fame (whose wines have also arrived….) was drawn in by the possibilities that this ancient and unique viticultural area offered.  Along with partner Peter Sisseck of Dominio de Pingus fame, he purchased a sizeable estate, with various holdings of old vine Nerello Mascalese between 80-100 years old at a minimum!!  Sisseck was shortly thereafter bought out, and Franchetti forged on with his vision, no expense spared.  He planted two 3000 foot elevation vineyards to varieties that he intuited would fare well with Etna’s climate/soil, in spite of no historical reference point: Chardonnay in his Guardiola vineyard, and Cesanese d’Affile and Petit Verdot in his Franchetti vineyard.  Over the following decade, he continued to refine his aesthetic goals and knowledge of Etna’s character; he culled out four distinct single vineyard Nerello Mascalese wines, which he calls “contrade”, to highlight some of Etna’s microclimactic diversity.  Virtually from the outset, the purity and intensity of the wines have been received with a fever pitch of superlative praise.  With the newly arrived 2010 vintage reds and 2011 white, we have a collection of wines that may be his greatest ensemble yet.  The cooler 2010 vintage has allowed for a gorgeous sense of freshness and poise that frames the wines’ savory red fruited core.  Across the board, the wines are eminently swoon worthy in their purity, texture, and sumptuousness………
Here are some impressions from Antonio Galloni on the 2010s:

And the wines, with reviews from Galloni:
2011 Passpisciaro Guardiola Chardonnay $29: Blind, this wine brings to mind a sense of cut and salinity that i’ve only really experienced from white Burgundy, with its own tropical richness and concentration.  This is a stunner if that sounds like your cup of tea……

“The 2011 Guardiola (Chardonnay) boasts impeccable richness and class in its juicy peaches, lemon, white flowers and spices. Insistent veins of minerality frame the long, finish. The 2011 is a gorgeous, totally pure expression of Chardonnay from the slopes of the Etna. I would not be surprised if the 2011 opens over the next 6-12 months, as it had just been bottled at the time of my tastings. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. “ 91 points

2010 Passopisciaro $35 For the money, this is an insanely good value to my taste……

“The 2010 Passopisciaro is deceptively mid-weight, but behind the light color and seeming fleeting structure lies a deeply expressive core of perfumed red berries, crushed rocks, flowers and mint. A burst of deep salinity frames the bracing finish. Quite simply, this is a stunning wine. Think of the Passopisciaro as a cross of Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin and Gattinara. The Passopisciaro bottling is made from parcels in Guardiola and smaller pieces that aren’t large enough to be bottled separately. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. “ 94 points

The single Contrada wines, all packed in 6pk wooden cases:
2009 Passopisciaro Contrada Sciaranuova $59

“The 2009 Contrada Sciaranuova S is one of the firmer wines in this set of 2009s. Bright red fruit, flowers, anise and minerals wrap around the palate in this wiry, energetic Nerello Mascalese. This shows substantial vibrancy and cut, along with intense mineral notes that become more prominent over time. Sweet scents of cedar, dried herbs and tobacco add complexity on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. “ 94 points

2010 Passopisciaro Contrada Sciaranuova $59

“A totally striking wine, the 2010 Contrada Sciaranuova S opens with a deep, intriguing bouquet redolent of orange peel, tar, licorice and exotic spices. Dark berries, minerals and rose petals add further complexity on the generous, silky finish. This is a texturally brilliant, poised wine endowed with tons of class and nuance. Striking pretty much sums up it all up here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020.” 94 points

2010 Passopisciaro Contrada Chiappemacine $59

“The 2010 Contrada Chiappemacine C reveals a more immediate expression of fruit. Dark red berries, tobacco and mint flesh out on the radiant mid-palate. This is still an energetic style because of the vintage, but the Chiappemacine C is a bit richer than some of the other 2010s as this site sits on the lower end of the slope. Like all the Passopisciaro reds in this vintage, the Chiappemacine C is impeccably refined and harmonious. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. “ 94 points

2010 Passopisciaro Contrada Porcaria $69 In addition to the highest score issued by Galloni, this wine won the 
Tre Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso, the highest prize from Italy’s leading wine publication.

“Constantly changing in the glass, the 2010 Contrada Porcaria P (from the Feudo di Mezzo vineyard) is the most complete of these 2010s. Layers of dark fruit continue to sweep across the palate as this generous, deeply satisfying Etna red opens up in the glass. The Porcaria P is arguably the richest of these 2010s, but at the same time, underlying veins of minerality keep the wine vibrant and beautifully delineated. There is a level of pure unbridled energy in the 2010 that is hugely appealing. This is a dazzling showing from Andrea Franchetti. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. “ 95+ points

2009 Passopisciaro Franchetti $149 

“The 2009 Franchetti is another stunning wine. The blend is Cesanese d’Affile (80%) and Petit Verdot (20%) that are the result of massal selections from Lazio and Franchetti’s own Tenuta di Trinoro respectively. It is a fabulously ripe, exotic wine that envelops the palate with layers of dark fruit. Refined tannins support the fruit, while intense inner perfume adds sweetness and elegance, especially on the layered finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. “ 96 points

I am thrilled that these wines are finally here, and that you can begin to see what all of the fuss is about.  These are wonderfully complete wines that offer something to wine lovers of every ilk, from geek to hedonist to newbie.  It doesn’t hurt that i’m offering them at the best prices in the USA……
As always, with any questions or interests, hit me up at rob@downtoearthwines.net.
TO THE STUNNING BEAUTY OF ETNA, AND FRANCHETTI’S TAKE-NO-PRISONERS COMMITMENT TO HELPING IT SHINE!
CHEERS!!
RP

The superlatives have hardly stopped coming:

Currently, it is a family affair with their daughter Kate, her husband Hugo, and their three children also at the helm.  Life is good in Seguret!

Onto the wines, all in stock:
2012 Seguret Cotes du Rhone villages rose “Loubie” $13- A blend of 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah, from both saignee and press juice.  This is both rich and crisp, with good delineation.  A wonderful and uncommonly good rose….

2012 Cotes du Rhone blanc “la Source” $13- A blend of Grenache blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc.  A classic and pure quaffing CdR blanc, an aromatic delight.

2010 Seguret Cotes du Rhone villages Tradition $16-  Good luck finding better Cotes du Rhone villages for the money than this……………… Here is Robert Parker’s review:

“This blend of two-thirds Grenache and a big chunk of Syrah (about 25%) and old vine Carignan exhibits a peppery, garrigue-dominated, black cherry and black fruited nose and flavors. Full-bodied, spicy and concentrated, with silky tannins, this beauty displays classic Provencal characteristics and is remarkably full-flavored and dense. It should drink nicely for 5-6 years, if people can resist it.” 91 points.

2010 Seguret Cotes du Rhone villages Grande Reserve $25 per, or $23 per on a 6pk+- This has to be one of the greatest values in luxury wine at terribly affordable prices; it ages quite well too.  The Parker review:

“The 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Seguret Grande Reserve is sensational. A two-grape blend of two-thirds Grenache and the rest Syrah, with the Grenache aged in tank and the Syrah in small barrels, it has terrific freshness, delineation and purity. It is full-bodied, black/purple in color, with stunning richness and intensity. This is another great effort from proprietor McKinlay, who has become the reference point for the wines from the idyllic Provencal hilltop village of Seguret.” 93 points

2010 Seguret Cotes du Rhone villages Family Reserve “G” $39 - The rarely seen Family reserve wines are WOW factor wines, and then some.  More from the Bob:

“The most expensive wine is the 2010 Family Reserve Grenache. This very limited cuvee comes from old vines near the village of Seguret, where the winery is located. It is an absolutely stunning wine, with an inky bluish/purple color, abundant raspberry and blackberry liqueurs intermixed with some forest floor and floral notes (lavender?), and a full-bodied, intense mouthfeel, with good acidity and a hint of minerality. This is a young, relatively large-scaled wine with striking purity and balance. It should drink well for up to a decade, which is an uncharacteristically long time for a Cotes du Rhone-Villages Seguret.” 94 points

2010 Seguret Cotes du Rhone villages Family Reserve “S” $39 - 

“The 2010 Family Reserve Syrah is an altogether different animal than the Grenache cuvee (purchasers need to read the back label to see whether it is the Grenache or Syrah cuvee). The second most expensive wine, it is aged in small wood for nearly a year before being bottled. As one might expect, it displays notes of forest floor and blackberry as well as hints of road tar and truffle. The wine is saturated, rich, full-bodied, and actually surprisingly complex and well-made, even though it is 100% Syrah from the Southern Rhone, which tends to be a somewhat worrisome proposition in all but the most exceptional terroirs, which proprietor McKinlay obviously has. This wine should drink nicely for up to a decade.” 91 points

I feel terribly fortunate to introduce these wines from two wonderful vintages: 2012 as a fruit driven vintage of charm, and 2010 as one of the most poised and complete vintages since perhaps 1990??  I look forward to spending time with Walter and his Family in Seguret later this year….I can already tell, they’re my kind of people….LIVE AND LET LIVE!!!
As a bit of a teaser, Walter plans on coming to visit us in late June.  We will certainly host some memorable events and tastings to celebrate, if there is any wine left!!!
As always, with any questions or interests, you can reach me at rob@downtoearthwines.net.
CHEERS TO THE MCKINLAYS AND LIVING THE DREAM! YOU CAN NEVER RETIRE WHEN YOU DO WHAT YOU LOVE!!!!!
PS-A SHOUT OUT TO ALEX ANTHOPOULOS FOR MAKING THIS HAPPEN!!!

2011 Santenay Comme-Dessus blanc $25
From the upper most slope of Santenay, just above the 1er cru red portion of the vineyard.  This has wonderful tension and length; a silly good value for rockheads.

2011 Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc $30
From the upper slope portion of the heart of Santenay’s nothern sector of 1er crus, this has terrific balance and elegance.  Terrific value here….

2011 Maranges 1er cru la Fussiere $24
Wonderfully black fruited and juicy, with good depth and savoriness to boot.  Yummo.

2010 Santenay 1er cru la Comme $30
“This is also quite ripe with an attractively scented nose of violets, plum and cassis. There is a pleasing touch of minerality that adds lift to the seductively textured and mouth coating medium weight flavors that possess excellent volume on the delicious, balanced and lingering finish. This is really a lovely effort for what it is.” 90 points Burghound

2009 Santenay 1er cru Beauregard rouge $35
“Here the nose is more complex still with cassis, earth, red currant and plum aromas marrying into supple and quite seductively textured middle weight flavors that evidence a discreet minerality that adds good lift to the sappy and impeccably well-balanced finish. This high-quality effort could be enjoyed young or aged over the medium-term.” 91 points Burghound

2010 Santenay 1er cru Gravieres $35
“A wonderfully fresh and admirably pure nose of dark cherries, raspberries, warm earth and soft plum aromas is followed by rich, supple and suave yet well-detailed flavors that also enjoy excellent phenolic maturity, all wrapped in a racy, intense, focused and beautifully balanced finish. This is a terrific Santenay 1er that should age well yet also drink well young if desired.” 91 points Burghound

2010 Chassagne Montrachet monopole 1er cru Clos Pitois rouge $39

“(a huge 3 ha monopole of the Domaine, planted 50% to each color and which sits at the south end of the commune on the Santenay border; the pinot vines are approximately 60 years of age). An earthy, somber and quite serious nose features an abundance of floral nuances that add depth to the otherwise dark berry fruit aromas. There is good freshness to the ripe, rich and suave medium-bodied flavors that possess an attractively textured mouth feel and truly striking complexity that propels this to another level relative to all of the other wines in the range. There is excellent mid-palate concentration and impeccable balance that should enable this to age for many years yet be approachable in 6 to 8. Worth strong consideration.” 92 points Burghound

2010 Chassagne Montrachet monopole 1er cru Clos Pitois blanc $59
“A fresh and notably ripe nose displays only a trace of exoticism with pretty yellow orchard aromas that evidence hints of mango and papaya. The opulent, suave and impressively concentrated flavors brim with plenty of palate soaking dry extract and this is remarkably well-balanced given the sheer size and weight. Interestingly, the long finish is actually quite dry and overall, this is worth your attention as it will drink well young and old.” 91 points BurghoundIn the glass, these wines deliver uniquely burgundian pleasure!! They have substance and balance, and they will put a smile on anyone’s face, newbie to hard core.  My pet faves are the Graviere and Clos Pitois rouge, although i’d be a happy guy with any of them tableside.
Check ‘em out folks, you’ll thank me!!!!
As always, with any questions or interests, please contact me at rob@downtoearthwines.net
CHEERS TO JULIE ET ROGER AND THEIR LABOR OF LOVE! TO SANTENAY AND THE CLOS PITOIS!!

Buongiorno agli amici della vigna,

I’m proud to present the newly arrived bounty:

    Buongiorno tutti!
In reflecting upon today’s introduction, it reminds me of how Life has a funny way of unfolding sometimes…….destiny’s cards are dealt, and we play our hand.  Sometimes twists and turns in the road lead us to places that we had no intention of visiting; yet once we arrive, we find unforseen things that profoundly shape who and what we are.  I know that to be true for my life in wine, and my marriage to my beautiful and wacky wife Amber.  I never would have guessed……..and when there are those occasions of serendipity, when the unlikely or obscure coincidence occurs and reveals unforeseen meaning great or small, you have to, at the very least, give a wink and a nod to greater forces at play……
Such was the unlikey birth of Stella di Campalto’s life in Brunello.  A city girl from Rome, she married fairly young into a wealthy and powerful family that gave the young couple as a wedding gift an old church property on the oustskirts of Castelnuovo dell’Abate of Montalcino.  It had once been farmed as recently as the 1930s, but had remained fallow in hibernation since that time.  Then some years later, her aunt, a palm-reader…..CLICK ON THE IMAGE ABOVE TO HEAR STELLA TELL HER STORY! THE JUICY BITS IN ENGLISH ARE FROM 3:10 TO THE END; THERE IS A LOVELY POETIC FINISH……
And the results of Stella’s unlikely journey are nothing short of awe-inspiring.  Her wines are at once sensual, hedonistic, all about finesse, and all about Sangiovese.  There is a savory depth and delicacy to them that brings Burgundy to mind, indeed!  http://www.stelladicampalto.it
As to vinification, Stella has had ZERO formal education.  She hired a friend, the late Giusseppe Bianchini of Ciacci Piccolomini, to help her plant the vineyard (biodynamic from day 1), as well as consulting with the legendary Gianfranco Soldera for the first few years.  For the past few vintages, she has been on her own, guided by instinct.  The wines are aged in a broad variety of oak vessels; there is not yet a fixed recipe to Stella’s regimen, she is feeling it out as she goes……as the wines age in barrel, she tastes periodically, deciding in flight what will become her Brunello and what will become her Rosso.  This makes for a genuine “baby Brunello” for her Rosso, as literally every bottle COULD be called Brunello if she so chose.  I don’t know of a single person who has tasted her wines that hasn’t been charmed by them…….
It is also important to mention the collaboration that she and two other vintners started: the SPA, Sangiovese per Amico.  http://www.sangioveseperamico.com In direct response to the corruption of the “Brunellogate” scandal, which revealed massive amounts of fraudulent Brunello being made by the addition of non-Sangiovese based grapes, Stella and two colleagues at Poderi Salicutti and Pian dell’Orino joined together and seceeded from the Consorzio di Brunello, the dominant political entity that oversees all legislation regarding Brunello.  In their quest to better define and celebrate what makes the several subzones of Montalcino different, as well as the genetic variety of Sangiovese that exists there, they proposed to meticulously measure and quantify these differences, attempting to create a map of the terroirs of Montalcino, a la Burgundy or any region that has a classification system of Crus.  They were met with hostility and threats from the largest abusers of the name “Brunello di Montalcino”, as such a classification would reveal who is the real deal, and who is a pretender…….
The biggest contributor to this meticulous study is Jan Hendrik Erbach of Pian dell’Orino.  http://www.piandellorino.com  What this man is doing, i’m convinced, is going to forever change the way that wine lovers understand Montalcino and its diversity.  His minute detail oriented “experiments” from several zones of Montalcino carried out over several years are going to yield a scientifically substantiated map of the zones of Montalcino, its parcellary character, and the subtle differences in the clonal varieties of Sangiovese.  HIs thoroughness, sensitivity, and passion are remarkable, as I was thrilled and awed by his vision from just one cellar visit.  NOT TO MENTION THE WINES!! The Pian dell’Orino wines have also burst onto the scene, their profound finesse and purity stealing the hearts of critics and wine lovers alike.  I am starting to work the Jan and his wife Caroline Pobitzer with a small parcel of their 2007 Brunello and 2010 Rosso to arrive in late October, early November.  They are not to be missed……..
As to Stella’s wines, there are minuscule quantities in stock, as people have taken to the wines really fast;  Beauty is as Beauty does!
But here is the lowdown on what is available:

2008 Rosso di Montalcino $35 
“The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino goes straight to the soul. Black olives, dried cherries and subtle earthiness are some of the nuances that emerge from this highly personal, idiosyncratic Rosso. This is a strikingly beautiful wine from Stella di Campalto.” 92 points Antonio Galloni
2009 Rosso di Montalcino $35
“The 2009 Rosso di Montalcino offers up freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, wild herbs and licorice. There is a brightness to the fruit that is quite appealing. The slender personality of the year comes through in this perfumed, refined Rosso.” Antonio Galloni
2005 Brunello di Montalcino $69
“Bright, moderately saturated red. Flamboyant aromas of red cherry reduction, cassis, sandalwood, sweet spices and rose petal. Amazingly velvety on entry, with the rich, dense flavors of superripe red cherry, sweet licorice and truffle giving an almost unctuous mouth feel. The long and creamy-smooth lasts for minutes. A great Brunello and one of my early picks for wine of the vintage. “ 94 points Ian d’Agata of Tanzer’s IWC
2006 Brunello di Montalcino $69 in 750 $159 in Magnum!
“The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine that will make readers fall in love with Sangiovese. Mediterranean herbs, underbrush, tobacco, plums and dark cherries are just some of the nuances that emerge from this graceful Brunello. Deceptively medium in body at first, the wine puts on weight in the glass while remaining delicate and impeccably balanced. The inner perfume builds nicely towards the compelling finish, where the closing blast of fruit punctuates the energetic close. This is a mesmerizing wine that combines finesse and power.” 96+ points Antonio Galloni
2007 Brunello di Montalcino $79 
“The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is ripe, flashy and seductive. It shows lovely juiciness and fleshiness to match its generous personality. It is only with the passage of time that the wine’s structure begins to emerge. Ripe red fruits, rose petals, spices and licorice wrap around the subtle yet engaging finish. “ 94 points Antonio Galloni

AND FROM PIAN DELL’ORINO: Arriving in late October/early November

2010 Rosso di Montalcino $29 - No press on this one yet, but the 2010 vintage was outstanding in Montalcino.  Here is a review of the 2009:
“The 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is a beautiful, radiant wine that captures the personality of the vintage. It shows lovely juiciness and generosity in its silky red berries, flowers, mint and sweet spices. The Rosso impresses for its mid-palate juiciness and fabulous overall balance. The 2009 was made from vineyards in Pian Bossolino and a plot adjacent to the winery, and spent 18 months in cask. The 2009 is a serious Rosso and an excellent introduction to the wines of Pian dell’Orino.” 91 points Antonio Galloni for the 2009

2007 Brunello di Montalcino $65 It bears mentioning that this was the highest rated Brunello in both Parker and Tanzer for the 2007 vintage!
“The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is more than a worthy follow up to the spectacular 2006. Freshly cut flowers, violets, licorice, leather and tar meld into layers of dark fruit in a dazzling display of elegance and power. Silky tannins and expressive perfumed notes both add further refinement on the huge, explosive finish. The combination of ripeness of the year allied to a classic sense of structure is immensely appealing. This is one of the few 2007s I tasted that still needs time in the cellar, even though today it is flat-out stunning.” 97 points Antonio Galloni
“Bright deep red.  Subtle, precise aromas of raspberry, minerals, smoke and flowers hint at a liqueur-like ripeness; there’s something almost Burgundian here.  Dense, thick and compellingly sweet, with outstanding chewy depth and sufficient energy to its sappy red berry and mineral flavors.  Utterly seamless Brunello with chewy, lush tannins and outstanding lingering sweetness.  A very ripe wine for the vintage, but it all works.” 95 points Ian d’Agata 

I am thrilled to partner with two of the brightest rising stars of Montalcino, and to support their belief in a revolutionary understanding and celebration of what makes Brunello genuine and unique.  The road is just beginning to unfold for these growers, with fascinating results to come…..
I can assure you, if you enjoy Sangiovese based wines, and wines of finesse, hedonism, and complexity, these are must try wines…..come and see what all the buzz is about!
As always, with any questions or orders, feel free to contact me at rob@downtoearthwines.net.
Cheers to unlikely, beautiful twists of fate, friendships of mutual vision and purpose, and these growers’ labor of love!!

Bonjour les amis du vin,
This is an image of the heart of Savigny les Beaune of Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune. Map of Savigny
The purple colored parcels are village level vineyards; the darker red parcels are 1er cru vineyards.
The photo is from standing in aux Serpentieres, looking south across the valley towards les Jarrons and les Narbantons.  Aux Guettes is both behind and to the looker’s right.

This wide valley entrance, narrowing as it approaches the town (to the looker’s right, or the gray colored portion at the top of the map), with S-SE facing sloped vineyards on both sides of the Rhoin river, has to be my favorite showcase for deep, substantially ageworthy Burgundian character, at prices that are literally easier to swallow than almost any other red wine village in the Cote d’Or.  There are 22 different 1er crus in Savigny, the most important of which brilliantly capture the site specific differences in character that are a major part of Burgundy’s magic.  Add into the mix the variety of house winemaking styles, and voila!  You have an affordable playground to explore the real guts of Burgundy.
Of all of the growers in Savigny, there are but a few that are considered among its elite; the two I chose to work with, albeit in VERY different house styles, are very often the first mentioned…:  Jean Marc et Hugues Pavelot of Domaine Pavelot and Patrick Bize of Domaine Simon Bize.
Father Jean Marc and son Hugues Pavelot are the driving force behind Domaine Pavelot.  The house style is very focused and linear, with virtually always 100% destemmed fruit; this makes for a very clean and direct style that I’ve often referred to as being “gourmand”.  (A gourmet eats only fine food, a gourmand simply loves to eat!!)  Tasting through the impressive variety of 1er crus offers a textbook microcosm of the effects of terroir in action.  I find that the wines show very well both young and old, with a terrific balance of fruit and guts that makes lovely old bones.  Son Hugues is continuing to improve his game, with the ’09 and ’10 vintages perhaps being his finest yet.  Their “flagship” wine, a 1er cru called la Dominode, is from a sweet spot within the 1er cru Jarrons.  Pound for pound, it is undoubtedly of the greatest values in Burgundy, if not the world!, a terribly complete wine of deep, broad, and savory stuffing.  It is broadly recognized among Savigny’s finest wines, if not its finest, in virtually every vintage.
Domaine Simon Bize is altogether another animal.  The signature old-school whole cluster regimen (100% stem inclusion in most vintages) is a defining characteristic of the Bize wines; this imparts a certain spicy funk to the wines, as well as giving them a bit of additional nerve or tension for aging.  These are wines that are more apt to really sing with age, although the ripeness of 2009 allows easier accessibility.  His entry level white and red in 2010 are of the best value buys of the vintage.  Patrick Bize’s flagship wine would have to be his 1er cru Aux Vergelesses, in both white and red.  The white is amazing to my taste, one of the best buys in white Burgundy.  While the ’09 aux Vergelesses rouge has a softer, open-knit personality that is a reflection of the solar ’09 vintage, the ’10 is crackling with energy, featuring the kind of tension that fans of the domaine covet.  It is an absolute no brainer that will cruise in the cellar.  His 1er Guettes is also of Savigny’s finest, from within the Clos des Guettes; this has “upper slope” character in spades……..

The wines:
Bize:
2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Vergelesses blanc $55
“”The Savigny “les Vergelesses” blanc is a step up from the fine village wine and has to be one of the best white Burgundy values of the entire vintage! The stunning nose soars from the glass in a blaze of pears, apples, fresh almonds, acacia blossoms, beeswax, white soil tones and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and shows off great cut and grip, with superb mid-palate depth, laser-like focus and a very long, nascently complex finish. Stunning juice…” 93+ points John Gilman

2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Vergelesses rouge $55 in 750 $109 in Magnum
“”And the Savigny ‘Vergelesses’ this year in the Bize cellars- simply stunning! The brilliant bouquet roars from the glass in a beautiful blend of red and black cherries, raw cocoa, a myriad of Savigny spice tones, very complex minerality, roses and woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly seamless, with great mid-palate depth, stunning purity, ripe, elegant tannins and superb length and grip on the tangy and transparent finish. A great bottle of wine!” 94 points John Gilman

2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Guettes $55
“A reserved but elegant, pure and highly complex nose offers up intense floral

2010 Bourgogne blanc les Champlains $25
“The 2010 les Champlains is an utterly stunning bottle of wine and I cannot emphasize strongly enough how worthwhile a special search of the market will be to latch onto this superb wine, as its quality simply transcends that of Bourgogne blanc!  The great nose soars from the glass in a blaze of apples, peaches, orange blossoms, a great base of soil, a hint of honeycomb, and a lovely topnote of acacia blossoms.  On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very very complex, with a great core of fruit, superb cut and focus and simply stunning length and grip on the classy finish. A beautiful, beautiful bottle of wine. “ 91 points John Gilman

tank inpreparation for bottling soon after the New Year and was showing very well indeed. Thedeep, complex and quite soil-driven nose offers up a fine mélange of dark berries,espresso, woodsmoke, dark soil tones and a touch of fresh herbs in the upper register. Onthe palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very transparent, with a lovely core,fine-grained tannins and really superb length and grip on the focused finish. A veryclassy bottle of Bourgogne!” 90 points John Gilman.

2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Vergelesses blanc $59

2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Vergelesses rouge $59
“”The 2010 Savigny-lès-Beaune ‘les Vergelesses’ from Domaine Bize was also now in tank and was showing exceptional potential. The deep, pure and nascently complex nose soars from the glass in a beautiful mélange of black cherries, dark berries, bonfires, a brilliantly complex base of soil, espresso and a pungently floral topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with a sappy core of fruit, stunning soil inflection, ripe, fine-grained tannins, laser-like focus and outstanding length and grip on the perfectly poised, youthful and refined finish. A great, great bottle of Savigny in the making.” 95 points John Gilman2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Guettes $59

Pavelot:
2009 Savigny les Beaune villages $29 in 750ml $18 in 375ml

2009 Pernand Vergelesses 1er aux Vergelesses $39
“”The 2009 Pernand ‘aux Vergelesses’ is also outstanding in 2009, as it offers up the depth of pure fruit of the top examples of the vintage and shows no signs of overripeness. The bouquet delivers a fine mélange of plums, black cherries, cocoa, stony soil tones and just a whisper of the gamebirds to come with further bottle age. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and quite elegant, with impressive mid-palate depth, lovely purity, ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the classy finish. This is quite 1999-like again, with perhaps suaver tannins. A lovely bottle in the making.” 92 points John Gilman

2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Serpentieres $45
“…another excellent example of the vintage. The wine jumps from the glass in a fine aromatic blend of cassis, black raspberries, woodsmoke, gamebird, chocolate and complex soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite plush on the attack, with ripe tannins, fine mid-palate depth and a long, complex and classy finish. Again, the ’09 Serpentières is quite 1999-like in style and will make a lovely bottle with five to seven years of bottle age.” 91 points John Gilman

2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Guettes $39
“Good ruby-red. Restrained aromas of blackberry, licorice and mint. Densely packed and suave but youthfully closed today. Dark fruit flavors are framed and extended by pronounced minerality. Finishes long and firm, with notes of bitter chocolate and crushed stone. Still an infant; today the terroir shines through above the ’09 vintage character. There’s nothing easy about this serious Savigny wine.” 91 points Steven Tanzer

2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er les Narbantons $39
“Continuing the roller coaster ride here, the 2009 Narbantons is pure, ripe and beautifully balanced, with no signs of overripeness on either the nose or palate. The bouquet offers up a fine mix of black cherries, dark chocolate, currants, woodsmoke, raw cocoa and excellent minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and absolutely classic in style, with a rock solid core of fruit, ripe tannins and lovely acidity adding bounce and precision on the long and focused finish. “ 92+ points John Gilman

2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er la Dominode $55 in 750, $109 in Magnum
“Good ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, raspberry, mocha and menthol on the nose, with a suggestion of superripeness. Silky, juicy and sweet, offering a rare combination of sheer sucrosite and inner-mouth lift; terrific dark fruit intensity here. Shows little sign of surmaturite or heat in spite of the 13.5% alcohol. Finishes with ripe, granular tannins, a note of licorice and lingering sweetness. The Pavelots made 40 barrels of this superb and atypically powerful wine.” 93 points Steven Tanzer

2010 Savigny les Beaune villages $29

2010 Pernand Vergelesses aux Vergelesses $39
“(from vines planted in ’76). As with the Narbantons, 2010 will be the last vintage for this wine. A deft touch of wood sets off exceptionally ripe plum, cassis and black raspberry liqueur aromas. There is excellent detail and energy to the restrained and beautifully well-delineated flavors that possess an impeccably well-balanced if markedly firm finish that delivers fine length. This isn’t quite as complex as the Narbantons but there is a more pronounced sense of minerality that is attractive in its own fashion.” 91 points Burghound

2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Serpentieres $39
“The bouquet is deep and complex, offering up scents of black cherries, dark berries, a touch of venison, espresso and stony minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very primary in profile, with a rock solid core of fruit, tangy acids and very good length and grip on the focused and ripely tannic finish. This will need plenty of time in the cellar, but should prove to be excellent. ” 90-92 points John Gilman

2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er aux Guettes $39

“The 2010 Guettes is the most refined and complex wine in the lineup to this point (whether or not this is a function of its malo ending a little earlier here or a reflection of the greater elegance inherent in the terroir of Guettes I am not sure!), as the wine offers up a really lovely nose of black cherries, a touch of plum, dark berries, coffee bean, woodsmoke, gamebirds, a lovely base of soil and a dollop of new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a fine core of fruit, ripe tannins and a very long, focused and tangy finish. High class juice without a doubt in this vintage! ” 92-93 points John Gilman2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er les Narbantons $39
“(2010 will be the last vintage for this wine). An admirably pure and well-layered nose of plum, black cherry and Savigny style earth merges into very rich and round flavors that possess excellent volume and plenty of mouth coating extract. The moderately firm tannins are well-integrated and there is so much concentration that this beautifully complex effort will drink well young or benefit from up to a decade of cellar time. “ 92 points Burghound

2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er les Gravains $39
“The 2010 Gravains from Domaine Pavelot is a very closed and reserved wine at the present time, but with good underlying purity and promise. The deep, complex and refined nose offers up scents of cassis, black cherries, dark berries, coffee bean, fresh herbs, gamebirds and a complex signature of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and quite pure on the attack, with a rock solid core of fruit, ripe tannins, fine focus and grip and a very long, reserved and promising finish. This will be lovely in the fullness of time.” 92-93 points John Gilman

2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er la Dominode $49 in 750 $109 in Magnum
“The 2010 Pavelot Dominode is excellent and clearly the star of the cellar in this vintage. The deep and superb nose jumps from the glass in a blaze of cassis, black cherries, currant leaf, espresso, charred wood, black minerality, woodsmoke and a nice touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very complex, with a fien core of fruit, a very soil-driven personality, ripe tannins, tangy acids and outstanding length and grip on the beautifully delineated finish. A lovely, lovely bottle in the making. “ 93-94 points John Gilman

For both connoisseurs and newbies, Savigny of this caliber represents some of the finest value in Burgundy.  From these two “cherry” vintages, we have an embarrassment of riches to choose from.  I heartily recommend mixing a case of different 1er crus;  to get to compare and contrast the evolution of the various 1ers over time is precisely the kind of exercise that will give you a baseline understanding of how Burgundy evolves, and how very different the site driven character is.  As I frequently hear people bemoan the inaccessibility price-wise of great Burgundy, these are some of my go to counterpoints……..as always, with any questions or interests, you can find me at rob@downtoearthwines.net.
Cheers to the health of you and yours!
rp

Bonjour et joyeuses fetes a tout le monde!
Of the growers that I work with, there are a few elder statesmen whose depth of knowledge/experience, serene grace, stirringpresence, and masterful craft invoke a feeling of being with a true Jedi: Michel Lafarge of Volnay and Philippe Foreau of Vouvray come to mind….
Of the younger generation, the young man pictured here, Guilhem Goisot of the village of St Bris le Vineux in Chablis, gives me the strongest sense that he is on a very special path, a conduit for transcendent greatness aka the Force.  For the ABC intro to the domaine, check out last year’s newsletter on Goisot here: http://www.downtoearthwines.net/?p=717 .
Guilhem carries himself in a calm, deep, gentle, and deliberate manner; there is an honesty and a sense of complex simplicity to him that is striking.  He has a seemingly boundless resolve to continue to improve and evolve all aspects of his craft, to honor the time tested traditions of his ancestors while embracing new possibilities and change.  The work ethic here is, no pun intended, ROCK SOLID.  And when you get to taste through each of these wines, particularly the 2010 Corps de Garde tier wines and single parcel Bourgogne blancs, you cannot help but be struck by the sheer brilliance that these soils and such hard work affords……
Upon parting ways from our June visit together both walking the vineyards and tasting through these current releases, I reflected upon the profound humanity that this work represents; my philosophical/poetic nature can’t help but recognize that the world would be a far better place if there were more people like Guilhem: humble, progressive, hardworking stewards of their land, with a profound respect for a sustainable, holistic relationship to Nature.  Alas, I digress…..
Here is what has just arrived…..just for superlative eye-popping praise, Allen Meadows’ refrain from EVERY review of the Goisot wines:

2011 Bourgogne Aligote $15 - A personal pet favorite wine of mine, this offers delicious complexity and usefulness. This is a popular house wine chez moi….quite floral, both generous in texture, finishing dry and mineral; everyone loves it!! It’s a shame, they’re tearing out Aligote because people look down their nose at the stuff….on my short list of best QPRs…..

2011 St Bris Exogyra Virgula $17 - Exogyra is the latin name for the type of oyster that are the principal soil component here; Virgula is latin for  a comma (the shape of the oyster shell).  Hence, “Oyster Comma”……St Bris is Sauvignon blanc, FYI.  Quite filigree and fine in texture.

2011 St Bris Moury $18 - From soils that are almost pure limestone.  More taut, punchy, and stony. Salivatingly delicious.2010 St Bris Corps de Garde $22 - Old vine Fie Gris, aka Sauvignon Gris.  This has a very unique and intense floral quality; coupled with 2010s freshness and verve, this is showstoppingly good.  Once again, everyone who I have turned this onto has adored it. This has a special place in the shockingly-delicious-geek-hall-of-fame.

2010 Bourgogne Corps de Garde Pinot Noir $23 - If you want one candidate for the best QPR red Burgundy that I work with, this would have to be it, particularly with 2010s super superfine balance and intensity.  This is a case buy no-brainer.  A smidge of 2009 is left as well….

2010 Bourgogne Corps de Garde Chardonnay $23 - And to echo, this would be on the best QPR white Burgundy that I work with list….good medium weight, terrific mineral punch and cut, this is amazingly good.  Another case buy no-brainer.  I had a 1990 Corps de Garde Chardonnay with Guilhem a year ago, and it was quite vibrant and deeelicious….

The three single parcel Chardonnays: These three single parcel Chardonnays are on the short list for most insane value in micro-terroir driven “cru” wines.  It’s what is in the bottle that counts…..reference the old news letter link above for images of the soils and more info!!!!:

The Gondonne soils: composed almost entirely of compacted tiny oyster shells and fine gray silt.  The most understated and taut of the trio, this is a wine of great finesse, with an airy coolness and mineral length.  Guilhem referred to it as the most connoisseur of the three.
The Biaumont soils: A variety of limestone, blue oysters, and fossils.  It is richer and quite explosive in both its fruit and mineral dimensions.  Guilhem remarked that it gets quite finessed with age, inspite of always being a punchy youth.
The Gueles de Loup soils: ‘pur calcaire’ or 100% limestone.  Both rich and palate stainingly mineral.  A Wow wine.

2010 Bourgogne Gondonne $35
2010 Bourgogne Biaumont $35 Some 2009 left as well….same price.
2010 Bourgogne Gueules de Loup $35

I can’t say it strongly enough: these are insane values that ooze crystalline authenticity from top to bottom.  People have asked me, “Who is your favorite grower to turn people onto that you work with?”.  I have replied on many occasions without hesitation: Goisot.  I think that it is because the “special something” that resonates so intensely with me then fairly universally resonates with others.  That such profound crystalline quality is accessible at such affordable prices is a joy to share, quite literally…..
For both the deep Burgundy connoisseur and the novice, these are palpably special wines.  Check some out if you haven’t yet…..you’ll thank me!!!
With any q’s or interests, give me a jingle at rob@downtoearthwines.net
TO THE INSPIRING CHARACTER OF GUILHEM GOISOT AND THE FRUITS OF HIS LABOR OF LOVE!!
TO YOUR HEALTH!
CHEERS!
RP

Bonjour mes amis,
Imagine, if you will, that it’s the middle of the night in a sleepy alpine hamlet, the moon and stars shining brightly down upon the surrounding mountains.  The only sound to be heard is the nocturnal chorus of the wind and insects, playing their timeless tune.  Out of this familiar calm and quiet explodes an unearthly rumbling.  Quite literally, the heavens are falling!! Massive limestone boulders tumble and squash the majority of the homes; a panicked and bewildered crush of humanity and livestock scurry to seek shelter, helpless in the face of such elemental force.  After only a few minutes of apocolyptic horror, the rumbling is done.  Several thousand souls are killed beneath a 3 mile long flow of stone and earth……
This unimaginable nightmare is exactly what happened one fateful evening in 1248 in Apremont, France of the Savoie region of the Alps.  The iconic limestone Mount Granier had collapsed, crushing everything in its path.  The traumatic event was of such deeply scarring suffering to the valley’s inhabitants that the area forever more takes its name from this tragedy: “bitter mountain” or Apremont.

 
As a direct result of this geological shift, the limestone debris radically changed the landscape and its agricultural usefulness.  Limestone is broadly recongized as being some of the best soil for farming under vine, which has been a principal crop of the area ever since.  The dominant grape variety here is Jacquere, a white cepage that yields refreshingly crisp and aromatic wines with a unique specrum of fruit/floral flavors, finishing with limestone’s signature saline mineral finish.
There is very little doubt that Apremont’s greatest domaine belongs to the Masson family, grape growers for four generations.  Pictured above is Jean-Claude Masson, the proud steward of his family’s 9 hectares.  He has been dubbed the “arch terroiriste of Apremont” by the Wine Advocate’s David Schildknecht, as he fashions 10 different cuvees from his various parcels to highlight the subtle differences in character that emerge from these soils.  While many subtle aspects of the wines change in each cuvee, there is an undeniably universal deliciousness in all of them.  I prize wines that deliver both a certain immediacy as well as some palpable complexity; sheer deliciousness allied to soil driven flavors.  A table with Jean-Claude and family, we tasted through all of the wines from a few vintages…..while Jean-Claude and I were busy critically evaluating the wines and their origins with our modern wine-geek style, we asked his father what he thought of the wines.  He simply took another sip, smiled from ear to ear, and proclaimed them “tous bons”.  That was his expression for each and every wine we tasted, a broad satisfied grin at his son’s work….
Jean-Claude himself is a jovial and hearty character; I genuinely appreciated his “down home” lack of pretension, sense of humor, and passion for his family and home.  As we toured the vineyards, it was fascinating to see the lengths to which he has pushed the envelope, seeking ever finer expression from the land.  For example, the “la Dechiree” parcel, meaning “the torn”, is just that: a piece of land whose almost 2 meters of topsoil has been torn off to reveal the rock shelf below.  It is like a small rock pocket carved into the hillside, stony deliciousness….

2011 Apremont Cuvee Lisa $15 : David Schildknecht’s review of the 2010:
“The Masson 2010 Apremont Cuvee Lisa (as always, from an especially chalky, high active lime site and appropriately sporting an off-white version of the V.V. Traditionelle label) lives up to its persistent pattern of invigorating ping as well as animated and refreshing exchange between flinty, chalky, stony mineral suggestions and zesty citrus (here favoring lemon and grapefruit). This installment exhibits a lusciousness to accompany its exuberance that I have not found in previous vintages of Lisa. A greenhouse-like aromatic amalgam of leafing and flowering things also has a delightful inner-mouth echo in this long-finishing cuvee that should remain deliciously entertaining for at least the next 3-4 years. ” 91 points

2011 Apremont Vieilles Vignes du Siecle $25 : David Schildknecht’s review of the 2010:

“From old vines that his grandfather planted right into almost bare rock, and as usual bottled only on the cusp of the subsequent harvest,

Masson’s 2010 Apremont Vieilles Vignes du Sciecle (as he refers to it in conversation and on his price list, even though “du Sciecle” never appears on its oversized, pale green label) is the cuvee most worth following in bottle and I don’t doubt that in this case that means for the better part of a decade. Bittersweet floral scents mingle with intimations of wet stone, maritime salinity and alkalinity, as well as hints of iodine. The inner-mouth performance is every bit as hauntingly floral and intriguingly, diversely mineral as the nose had let me to hope, and there is a vibrant, tingling, shimmering sense of interaction among floral, mineral and juicily fruity elements (white peach, pear, and lime) in the wine’s memorably long finish. Even more so than the corresponding Collection cuvee, this exceptional value manifests a slight sense of austerity when compared directly with its siblings; but here is “exhibit A” in the case for truly profound (yet for all that no less exhilarating or ultimately refreshing) Jacquere. ” 92 points

2011 Apremont Coeur $29 : David Schildknecht’s review of the 2010:
“Another cuvee of which the present installment is the second; and sourced from old vines that previously informed the his Collection bottling, Masson’s 2010 Apremont Coeur features succulent white peach and crenshaw melon to which ashen, alkaline and iodine-like notes offer striking counterpoint. A slight, pleasantly-integrated suggestion of gooseberry preserves puts me in mind of certain Loire or Austrian Sauvignons. This luscious, expansive wine – his last-picked and ripest, having finished (with but one gram of residual sugar, exceptionally low chez Masson) at 12.5% alcohol – does indeed wear its heart on its sleeve not just its label, yet it retains the brightness characteristic for its vintage and a portion of the vibrancy that rendered this year’s Collection and V.V. du Sciecle bottlings so memorable and promising of subsequent, supplemental rewards. A cyanic peach kernel note adds piquant intensity to the wine’s persistent finish.”

Wines of this quality at these prices are a joy to present.  Do yourself a favor and mix up a case.  The versatility and sheer joyful pleasure of these wines are not to be lost on anyone……..
As always, if you have any questions or interests, hit me up at rob@downtoearthwines.net
TO THE LABOR OF LOVE THE MASSON FAMILY!
CHEERS!
RP