From 100% volcanic soil, this is an AMAZING bottle to showcase the powerful minerality that emerges from the complex soils of the domaine. This is the calling card of the estate, an insane value to my taste.
And now David Schildknecht has chimed in, months after my impressions, with the following review:
"Smelling like I just stepped into the pit of an active stone quarry with sparks flying as workers chip-away with hammers, the Wagner-Stempel 2011 Siefersheimer Riesling trocken Vom Porphyr – as usual, coming from both Heerkretz and Hollberg – combines nose-wrinkling pungency with pure, luscious, lively white peach, white currant, grapefruit and yellow plum such as call to mind Wagner’s photographs of the fruit that informed this wine: tiny, translucent green-gold, glowing globes of Riesling hanging in almost perfect uniformity. Wagner notes that it was hard to know which fruit to take for this bottling and which for his Grosses Gewachs, so close were analysis, appearance, and taste within the entire Riesling crop of these sites. A hint of persimmon piquancy and pungency invigoratingly disturbs the otherwise satiny palate of this almost infinitely juicy yet profoundly minerally Riesling, but the finish displays transparency of fruit to a shimmering interaction among pit piquancy, crystalline and smoky stoniness, accompanied by invigorating nips of citrus zest. The most exciting (among many an estimable) installment of this bottling since the glorious 2004, this Riesling trocken (perhaps sad to say) puts to shame the majority of typically twice as expensive Grosse Gewachse from anywhere in Germany. (And indeed, shows-up one-such in this very collection.) Look for at least ten or a dozen years of dazzling performance, for which, bravo!" 93 points
Copyright 2011 Panzer