Bonjour et joyeuses fetes a tout le monde!
Of the growers that I work with, there are a few elder statesmen whose depth of knowledge/experience, serene grace, stirringpresence, and masterful craft invoke a feeling of being with a true Jedi: Michel Lafarge of Volnay and Philippe Foreau of Vouvray come to mind….
Of the younger generation, the young man pictured here, Guilhem Goisot of the village of St Bris le Vineux in Chablis, gives me the strongest sense that he is on a very special path, a conduit for transcendent greatness aka the Force. For the ABC intro to the domaine, check out last year’s newsletter on Goisot here: http://www.downtoearthwines.net/?p=717 .
Guilhem carries himself in a calm, deep, gentle, and deliberate manner; there is an honesty and a sense of complex simplicity to him that is striking. He has a seemingly boundless resolve to continue to improve and evolve all aspects of his craft, to honor the time tested traditions of his ancestors while embracing new possibilities and change. The work ethic here is, no pun intended, ROCK SOLID. And when you get to taste through each of these wines, particularly the 2010 Corps de Garde tier wines and single parcel Bourgogne blancs, you cannot help but be struck by the sheer brilliance that these soils and such hard work affords……
Upon parting ways from our June visit together both walking the vineyards and tasting through these current releases, I reflected upon the profound humanity that this work represents; my philosophical/poetic nature can’t help but recognize that the world would be a far better place if there were more people like Guilhem: humble, progressive, hardworking stewards of their land, with a profound respect for a sustainable, holistic relationship to Nature. Alas, I digress…..
Here is what has just arrived…..just for superlative eye-popping praise, Allen Meadows’ refrain from EVERY review of the Goisot wines:
2011 Bourgogne Aligote $15 – A personal pet favorite wine of mine, this offers delicious complexity and usefulness. This is a popular house wine chez moi….quite floral, both generous in texture, finishing dry and mineral; everyone loves it!! It’s a shame, they’re tearing out Aligote because people look down their nose at the stuff….on my short list of best QPRs…..
2011 St Bris Exogyra Virgula $17 – Exogyra is the latin name for the type of oyster that are the principal soil component here; Virgula is latin for a comma (the shape of the oyster shell). Hence, “Oyster Comma”……St Bris is Sauvignon blanc, FYI. Quite filigree and fine in texture.
2010 Bourgogne Corps de Garde Pinot Noir $23 – If you want one candidate for the best QPR red Burgundy that I work with, this would have to be it, particularly with 2010s super superfine balance and intensity. This is a case buy no-brainer. A smidge of 2009 is left as well….
2010 Bourgogne Corps de Garde Chardonnay $23 – And to echo, this would be on the best QPR white Burgundy that I work with list….good medium weight, terrific mineral punch and cut, this is amazingly good. Another case buy no-brainer. I had a 1990 Corps de Garde Chardonnay with Guilhem a year ago, and it was quite vibrant and deeelicious….
The three single parcel Chardonnays: These three single parcel Chardonnays are on the short list for most insane value in micro-terroir driven “cru” wines. It’s what is in the bottle that counts…..reference the old news letter link above for images of the soils and more info!!!!:
The Gondonne soils: composed almost entirely of compacted tiny oyster shells and fine gray silt. The most understated and taut of the trio, this is a wine of great finesse, with an airy coolness and mineral length. Guilhem referred to it as the most connoisseur of the three.
The Biaumont soils: A variety of limestone, blue oysters, and fossils. It is richer and quite explosive in both its fruit and mineral dimensions. Guilhem remarked that it gets quite finessed with age, inspite of always being a punchy youth.
The Gueles de Loup soils: ‘pur calcaire’ or 100% limestone. Both rich and palate stainingly mineral. A Wow wine.
2010 Bourgogne Gondonne $35
2010 Bourgogne Biaumont $35 Some 2009 left as well….same price.
2010 Bourgogne Gueules de Loup $35
I can’t say it strongly enough: these are insane values that ooze crystalline authenticity from top to bottom. People have asked me, “Who is your favorite grower to turn people onto that you work with?”. I have replied on many occasions without hesitation: Goisot. I think that it is because the “special something” that resonates so intensely with me then fairly universally resonates with others. That such profound crystalline quality is accessible at such affordable prices is a joy to share, quite literally…..
For both the deep Burgundy connoisseur and the novice, these are palpably special wines. Check some out if you haven’t yet…..you’ll thank me!!!
With any q’s or interests, give me a jingle at firstname.lastname@example.org
TO THE INSPIRING CHARACTER OF GUILHEM GOISOT AND THE FRUITS OF HIS LABOR OF LOVE!!
TO YOUR HEALTH!